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North
It’s eight hours in an LC-130 Hercules from Pegasus Airfield, at the edge of the ice shelf off Ross Island, north to Christchurch. A C-17 can do it in five, but for reasons of logistic arcana, the...
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Here, Now and Away
Looking south from Punta Arenas into the Strait of Magellan Today, on Erev Yom Kippur, the most solemn day for observant Jews, we are urged to search inside ourselves, to seek out and contemplate the...
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An (Almost) Uneventful Arrival
When I next noticed anything, it was dawn over the Pacific. Below, a blanket of rippling clouds stretched to the east like a bedspread draped gently over the sleeping ocean so as not to wake it. I had...
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Inside Passage
We’re halfway down Chile’s equivalent of the Alaskan inside passage, threading our way through the archipelago that cuts Chilean Patagonia off from the rest of the country. Chile itself is defined by...
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Tales Not Told
Last night we stood on the bow, squinting out in waning dusk for the Cuernos – the Horns – of Torres del Paine. They were out there to the east, tantalizingly close amid the labyrinth of islands, but...
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New Story: The Long Way Home
“I always try to tell Anna that it’s not the cold that gets you — it’s the wind. But, oh what I’d give for a little wind now. Any wind.” –The Long Way Home Yes – more Antarctic fiction! Veteran...
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That Other Thing I’m Doing
There are many reasons why my life is the kind of thing that would have been inconceivable to someone a hundred years ago. Case in point is the realization that my last three meals have been on three...
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If You Want to Hear the Gods Laugh…
The plan was that within a few hours of now, I’d be settling in behind my old desk below deck on the icebreaker, down at the end of Muelle Prat in Punta Arenas. Working with an A-Team (Adina, Al and...
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Showtime, Part II
Just a short note here, so as not to keep everyone wondering: we made it to the ship about as uneventfully as could be imagined. A small mountain of paperwork shuffled and copied cheerfully by Chilean...
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And Back Again
An hour short of Dallas, I’ve already been on, or rather over the road for 21 hours. Another eight before I’m done for the day, but the strange, albeit understandable, sensation is that I haven’t...
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